You will land at the Port of Argol on the "inside" coast. The boat continues its to-ing and fro-ing and will leave you to the silence on this shaven heath, where the wind only sometimes and with enormous difficulty manages to whistle through the few cut-away reefs. When you go up the sandy "avenue", the village welcomes you in simply.
A few shivery houses are set out around the town hall, the presbytery, the post office and the school. Further along, the church, beneath its hull of a shipwrecked ship, is a proclamation of the double beliefs of the inhabitants of Hoëdic: the spirituality of men, and the bond between men and the sea.
On this island, only a good nature can overcome invasions, shortages and storms. The infectious joy of living shown by its inhabitants today is the result of more sorrowful periods.
In the image of those that live there, plant life on the island continues to arch its back against the elements. The gardener is ageless, but keeps on looking after this meticulous lawn where wild carnations and sea lilies abound (one of the mysteries of plant migration, since this variety of lily comes from tropical Asia).
At low tide, the coastal path will let you admire the many rocky isles where fishermen love to wander. At high tide, the boats come in via the narrow channel at the Port de la Croix, rebuilt in 1844 by the men, women and children of the island at the instigation of the rector. This port is more often dry than under water.
The Pointe du Vieux Château headland
The wildest site on the island.
If you go along the coast via the small sheltered beaches of the church port, you will reach the rocky end of the island which ends in a point suspended out over the sea. In 1933, nine Mesolithic tombs were found under the dune, certain of them protected by stag antlers.
Punished by the mainland "for reasons of contraband", the village priest and council drew up a code in 1822 defining the rights and duties of the inhabitants. The rector then received all taxes, distributed duties and amongst other things, decided: article 16 concerning thieves: "he who is found guilty of theft, will pay a franc for the church, even for the smallest thing, and this fine will be increased in relation to the damage caused. If an outsider should break the rules of the country, the inhabitants may take justice into their own hands." Or even, article 28 on defences: "any girl who has not reached the age of thirty years will not be allowed to leave the island without the permission of her rector, and with serious reason, otherwise she should soon be spoilt."
The Fort
Built on the orders of Louis-Philippe in 1846, this fort, which is partly buried in the sand, was intended to resist the English. In 1881, it was home to the island's first non-religious school. 300 m from the fort stands Hoëdic's only menhir.
Beg Lagad Point
A tall tower in ruins is still on watch in the centre of a battery.
Built by Vauban in 1693, these are the remains of the "English Fort".
